Updating Hansshow Auto-Present Doors Over The Air (OTA)

I have been very pleased with Hansshow’s hardware; I have installed their Frunk Open / Close hardware and paid somebody else to install their Auto-Present Doors hadrware on both my Driver-side and Passenger-side doors.

But, as with many Chinese firms, the instructions to operate some aspects of these after-market parts have been somewhat challenging to decypher.

The notes below are specific to iPhone as that’s what I use exclusively these days. If you’re using Android or a separate dedicated Wi-Fi router, you’re presumably tech savvy enough to translate what I’m saying below to apply to your own device.

You will need to RENAME your iPhone temporarily for this to work. For simplicity’s sake you will want to take a screen shot of the current iPhone Name and Mobile Wi-Fi hotspot password so you can set them back when you are done.

So, based on my recent experience, here is what you do to update your Hansshow Auto-Present door module firmware OTA:

  • In iPhone Settings, got to General > About and tap on the Name field. Change this to SLOTA
iPhone “About” Settings Screen
  • Next go back to the Settings main page and tap on Personal Hotspot
  • Tap on Wi-Fi Password and replace the current password with 88888888 (eight 8’s) and tap Done.
  • Make sure that the Maximize Compatibility slider is set to ON (see picture).
iPhone Mobile Hotspot Settings Screen
  • While still on the Personal Hotspot screen, go into your Tesla and tap on the Wi-Fi icon on the top of the screen to allow you to select which Wi-Fi the car is talking to.
  • SLOTA will shortly appear, choose this and enter the 88888888 password when prompted. You are doing this to ensure that the iPhone hotspot is active and *stays* active while you are messing about with the update. Be very deliberate when tapping in all those 8’s as the Tesla interface is a bit sloppy and I found it would drop one or two of them when I was typing them in. Make sure that you are using eight 8’s.
  • Open the car door you want to update.
  • Press and hold the Black Control Button that was included and installed as part of your Auto-Presenting Door module install. It should slowly start beeping after about 3-6 seconds. If it does NOT start beeping (as can happen with the recent issues caused by Tesla’s recent firmware update), you should still be able to press and release the Black Control Button to tell the door to close. Then, using your elbow, just stop the door from closing all the way. It will push against you for a moment, then beep in protest and back off a bit. You should now be able to press the control button to initiate the update.
Black Control Button for Hansshow Auto-Presenting Doors
  • Press and hold the Black Control Button continuously, after about 3 seconds you should begin to hear a beep. Keep pressing and you will hear more beeps. Keep holding the button until you have heard 6 slow beeps.
  • Release the button and you will hear 6 rapid beeps. This confirms that you held it for 6 beeps.
  • You should now hear a steady beep that will last between 30-50 seconds. This is normal.
  • If you hear 5 1/2 rapid beeps (the last one just trails off) then you have applied the firmware. If you don’t hear anything after the long beep, then the update has failed. In my case it did this before I turned on the iPhone Mobile Hotspot Maximize Compatibility slider and couldn’t download the needed files.
  • Test the car door using the Door Unlock button to make sure it closes properly.
  • Adjust the other door settings (I don’t know if they always get reset but I adjusted these with each update), here are the commands to do this. I adjusted the door opening distance and the door speed (1 Beep and 3 Beeps)
  • Once your are satisfied that the update is done, or you need your mobile hotspot back to normal. Go ahead and rename your phone back to its original name and re-set your Wi-Fi mobile hotspot password by using the instructions above.

Maximize Compatibility will allow use of the older 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi bandwidth. The Hansshow modules don’t use the newer 5 GHz standard. I’ve run into this issue with several dedicated Wi-Fi devices in the past. I have to imagine it’s cheaper to use this component than one that can use multiple bandwidths.

Hannshow Auto Presenting door – Doors Function Erratically after Tesla Update 2024.45.32.10

*** Updated March 12 ***

Here is the procedure for performing the Over The Air update for these doors.

Hansshow has been very responsive to this issue and has mostly resolved it. They have addressed the biggest problem which was that we were unable to update the Auto-Presenting door modules Over The Air (OTA). This is a huge relief to me and, I’m sure, many others who have installed these great door modifications.

The only outstanding bugs are relatively minor: The passenger door now responds and opens on demand but will only open about 12 inches. I have relayed this back to Hansshow and am pretty confident they will be able to resolve the issue quickly.

The other issue is a bit more obscure. I use S3XY Buttons to open and close the passenger door, mostly as a convenience for my wife as she approaches the car with hands full of stuff. This has always worked fine. But now, with Tesla’s update and Hansshow’s response in firmware, when I close the door using these buttons I get a message:

“Front right door failed to open in Mobile App”

It’s a bit obscure, but it appears that Hansshow doesn’t return an expected response to Tesla when you close the door with other than the Tesla Door Open button or Hansshow’s little black Control button that comes with the unit. Tesla doesn’t expect Model Y cars to have any door automation so basically you issue an “Unlatch” command to both open and close the car doors. When this command is issued by the S3XY button it seems that, even though the door has closed itself and the soft-close module has pulled it shut, some message has NOT been sent back to the car’s computer to indicate success. I have notified Hansshow to see what they can do.

I recognize that this is going to be a niche case as, because of the cost, I am sure that not a lot of people have invested in the Passenger door Auto-Present hardware and, of those, I’m sure it’s only a subset that ALSO use the S3XY buttons. I’m not sure if there are any other apps out there issuing UNLATCH PASSENGER DOOR commands..

*** End March 12 Update ***

*** Updated March 8 ***

I did receive a response from Hansshow which was the first time I’ve been a bit disappointed with them. It was nonsense, which could be a translation thing, but I interpretted it to be double talk for “We don’t want to support Over the Air updates so you need to take apart both your doors in order to apply the update manually via an SD card”. Below is what I received and what I sent back in response. I remain hopeful that they won’t just leave us out to dry.

*** End March 8 Update ***

It is not wholly unexpected that updates to Tesla’s firmware might cause issues with 3rd Party after-market items. Especially those that are trying to integrate in with the car’s other functions.

On the heels of my Tesla Model Y Long Range having a passenger door issue after Tesla’s 2024.45.25.15 update. I now have this current issue as of Tesla’s 2024.45.32.10 and 3 subsequent updates (2024.45.32.15, 2024.45.32.20 & 2025.2.8).

The issue is that, first thing in the morning, or after the car sits for a few hours, both my driver and passenger doors work just fine. They open and close as they should. But the moment I touch the brake, they no longer open, they merely unlatch. *Most* of the time the driver’s door will finish closing if I begin pushing it shut, and usually pressing the Hansshow-provided black control button will close the door properly.

It was pointed out in one of the Tesla Motors Club forums that the ODBC port that the door modules are hooking into is not intended to be publically accessible and, hence, any API being used by Hansshow in order integrate with the car’s functions is subject to change. So Tesla can (and should be able to) change these interfaces as they see fit and it’s up to the third party (Hansshow in this case) to play catch-up and develop firmware updates for their Auto-Presenting door modules to reintegrate the door functionality so it works normally again.

Almost certainly you will need to use the door module’s built-in Over the Air (OTA) upgrade feature. I’ve described how to initiate this, along with other changes to the door parameters, in this Post about the Hansshow Auto Presenting door control button.

For their part, Hansshow has been reasonably responsive to my messages asking about a fix. Initially they were still waiting for their own test vehicle to receive the problem update so they could reverse-engineer the new messages being presented through the ODBC interface and respond accordingly.

I am publishing this in case others are stuck and wondering what to do about their investment in Hansshow’s Auto-Presenting doors. The answer, for the moment is still: be patient. I’m going to follow up early next week to see if they have an ETA for a fix.

Hansshow Auto-Presenting Doors Control Button commands

I added these doors to my Tesla Long Range Model Y (2023 if you care to know) after trading in my 2017 Tesla Model X. The Model X had the self presenting door feature that, when I ordered the car out of inventory, I literally had zero interest in.

However, as such things go, I absolutely became a fan. Being able to open the door for any and all passengers as they approach the car and closing the doors behind them was a wonderful experience. Especially since the modern door handles on the car were not super-intuitive to some people who had not before encountered them.

If you have bought and installed the Hansshow doors you have a black control button that can be used in place of the integrated functionality where you press the car’s built-in open door button to open and close them. This control button allows you to modify various facets of the Auto-Presenting door’s functioning.

The original Control Button directions I received from Hansshow were all but unintelligible, so I have cleaned them up and present them here for your use.

Be aware, another user on the Tesla Motors Club forum indicated mixed results from using these commands where their doors were not bought directly from Hansshow (they sourced theirs from Teste(?) I believe). So your mileage may vary.

With the door open, press and hold the control button. Release after the number of beeps below to achieve the desired setting:
1 Beep = set door opening distance
2 Beeps = Increase anti-pinch force, do it once to make the force greater (if the door keeps stalling when nothing is blocking it), do it again to go back to original force.
3 Beeps = Increase door closing speed. Will increase each time you do 3 beeps and then return to normal speed. Total number of settings is unknown.
4 Beeps = Factory reset
5 Beeps = Turn on/off door close function (when OFF, door soft close only will work)
6 Beeps = Production OTA update – in factory only
7 Beeps = After-Sales OTA update

I needed to extract this information from Hansshow when I first installed the doors as my passenger door would not reliably close. It turned out that I needed to increase the anti-pinch force (2 Beep above) and that addressed the issue for me.

Hannshow Auto Presenting door – Passenger Door Opens when Tesla goes to Sleep

I recently had an issue where the passenger-side door of my Tesla Model Y would pop open on its own about once an hour. After a bit of research it turned out that the car going to sleep would cause this behavior.

I originally thought the issue was due to a recent Tesla firmware update but this turns out to have been unrelated. So I ended up reaching out to Hannshow and they responded with the following:

Hansshow’s timely response, the assembly shown is the soft-close lock module.

Getting to the module in question is a relatively big deal (to me) as it involves taking apart the door and removing the window. Something I *can* do but would take me quite a few hours and we are in the midst of an unusual cold spell where I was not eager to spend any great amount of time in my garage doing this kind of work.

I was also a bit skeptical at first as Hansshow did not provide any explanation or details, but I had a 2,500 mile road trip coming up so I had to get this resolved A.S.A.P. So I took my car to CarTunes, the “Southeast’s expert in mobile electronics and customization” (and they are) to implement the change. They graciously were able to squeeze me the next day in to effect the repair and did so for a very reasonable rate. Once implemented that issue was magically resolved.

So kudos to Hansshow for their timely and accurate fix, and kudos to CarTunes for implementing the fix quickly and for a reasonable cost.

I *did* have a workaround in case I was unable to to get the issue resolved in time, that is to have the car’s Sentry Mode active 24×7 and, as overkill, to set the car’s ASS (Actually Smart Summon) to be in Standby mode. Both of these would prevent the car from sleeping which is key. I originally tried just the ASS standby mode but found that, every once in a while, it would let the car briefly fall asleep in spite of it’s claim of ALWAYS being ready to go. It was just for a few minutes but that was enough for the door to pop open. This approach would have consumed just slightly less energy than using the Sentry Mode (.38% battery consumption per hour for ASS vs Sentry Mode’s .40% battery consumption per hour). But either approach would have consumed on the order of 10% of my car’s battery per day and then shut off once the battery had depleted to below 20% anyway. So… not the greatest workaround as I would have needed to keep an eye on the car to keep it charged above that 20% instead of just letting it sleep when I wasn’t using it and having it consume virtually zero power.

Tesla Model Y Front Passenger Side Door Unlatches Hourly after updating to 2024.45.25.15

20250123 Resolution: Received a solution from Hansshow and implemented it which resolved the issue.

20250119 ​Minor update: It seems I have both Sentry Mode and ASS Standby Mode that work well to prevent the car from sleeping. 

​For my car Sentry mode consumes about .4% of my battery per hour and ASS Standby Mode consumes about .38% so both are the same in consuming about 10% of my battery per day.

I took the further step of unchecking (disabling) TeslaFi’s setting to attempt to allow sleep mode. 

Now just waiting on a response from Hansshow.

20250118 Addendum: This issue does NOT happen when the car is in Sentry mode. It appears to happen when the car is asleep.

Original Post:

First let me say that the new FSD 12.6.1 is an unbelievable improvement over even 12.5.x!

BUT, I updated to 2024.45.25.15 (FSD 12.6.1) early yesterday morning (January 17). A few hours later my wife came to tell me that the passenger side door was open.
So I closed the door after some brief troubleshooting and we took the car out to a park for a hike, then had some lunch (car in a busy parking lot) then shopped at Costco. I have the Tesla settings configured to notify me if the doors or windows are open so I’m pretty sure nothing happened throughout the day.

But shortly after I got home the passenger door unlatched itself again.

The issue repeats approximately every hour.

Attached is a screenshot of the warning notifications I’m seeing from Tesla’s notification panel. It is thinking that someone is opening the door using the manual unlatch mechanism (that I consider for emergencies only).

So I have updated the settings to send me a notification that the door is open when I’m at home (it was always set to do this but just not when at home).

Below is what I have and what I’ve tried. The most obvious culprit would seem to be the auto presenting doors, but they don’t just unlatch the door, they actually open and close it, plus there has never been an issue in the 10 months they’ve been installed. The issue absolutely *did* begin within a couple of hours after updating to 2024.45.25.15. Not saying they can’t be involved but it seems it would need to be a multi-factor cause in that case.

I have reached out to Hansshow and am reaching out to Tesla, but I wanted to know if anyone else has experienced this kind of issue since the update?

For context:

  • Tesla Model Y 2023 (HW3)​
  • Hansshow Auto Presenting Doors (V2) both Driver and Passenger side​
  • S3XY Buttons​

I’ve tried:

  • Removing the Tesla app from my iPhone, hard resetting the iPhone and then re-installing the Tesla App.
  • Disabling S3XY buttons (Disconnected the Commander module)
  • Soft resetting the car (Pressing both Scroll Wheels)
  • Hard resetting the car (Power off, wait 3 minutes)
  • Disabling the Hanshaw Auto Presenting doors (Turns off the feature, physical disconnect is pretty involved)
  • Factory resetting the Hansshow Auto Presenting doors (3 times as I try different settings)

Tesla Firmware Update 2021.24.5 Resolves My Car’s Sleeping issues

As you probably know, today’s cars are almost more like our smartphones than like the cars we knew and loved from the 70’s and 80’s. Electric Vehicles (EVs) even moreso.

I have a 2017 Tesla Model X. Most of the time I have it parked at home where I can leave it plugged in as much as I want to ensure that it’s always topped up and ready to go with a full tank of “gas”.

One big difference between EVs and Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) cars is that, unless you leave your headlights on, there is very little that will impact your ICE car if you leave it just sitting somewhere like an airport parking lot while you are traveling to some far away destination. EVs, or at least Teslas, have a relatively low power “Idle” mode that they enter immediately after you lock the car and walk away.

They also have an ultra-low power consumption mode referred to as “sleeping” that they are supposed to enter soon after that. They are supposed to remain in this sleep mode most of the time they are not in use, waking now and then to check for software updates or to perform some internal housekeeping.

Since I’ve owned my car, it has be very reticent to actually sleep. This didn’t affect me much except to be concerned for what the long-term impact of the car basically staying active all the time might do to its components. This was dramatically exacerbated when I upgraded my Full Self Driving computer and Media Control Unit (MCU) to the latest and greatest versions.

When I was at home any drain was not an issue since the car could be plugged in all the time if I so chose. But I found my “Phantom Drain” (as the excess power consumption caused by not sleeping is called) was pretty impactful when away from home. I was on a cruise a while ago and lost just under 30% of my battery state of charge just sitting in the hotel parking lot for a week.

Anyway, this is all just a preamble to say that the latest firmware update – called 2021.24.5 (I get these, on average, about every 18 days) seems to have absolutely addressed the sleep issue for my vehicle.

I mean it’s night and day. Where it was alternating 16 minutes sleep, 45 minutes idle for much of the day, ever since the update it sleeps for literally HOURS at a time regardless of whether it’s plugged in or not!

It even sleeps when it’s not at home (Sentry mode off, of course) which was a rarity before. But now it appears to be the norm.

I imagine this does not affect a lot of people, but I’m pretty pleased with this update.

Oh, and as a sidenote, as of about 3 software updates ago (2021.12.25.7 or 2021.24.2) I was finally able to log into YouTube in my Tesla’s entertainment system.

So somebody on Tesla’s engineering team seems to be fixing these ancient issues…

So my Tesla Model X has a Little Known Bug

Back in early December (2019) I noticed that the regen on my Tesla was not what it should be.

Basically, after overnighting in my garage on a 63 degree F morning, it would take about 25 minutes of my 40+ minute commute before I had full regeneration restored.

On a cooler 37 degree night, I ended up preheating the car for *54* minutes (miscalculated departure time) and, for that 32 minute drive I NEVER regained my full regen.

I contacted Tesla to have them take a look-see, after all, not a couple of weeks earlier they had replaced my Battery Coolant Heater (coincidence?).

Regardless, in spite of what seems like an obvious connection between a battery coolant heater and my battery heater not activating properly, Tesla came back and initially informed me basically that “battery packs are big and can be slow to warm up” and, when that didn’t work they then let me know that there is a firmware bug that is preventing the battery heater from activating.

Below is the transcript of my conversation with Tesla. I’m still waiting for the “future firmware update”.

Basically I’m seeing that Tesla Model X (Premium car) has now become so niche that it basically is not getting much attention at all. And I frankly believe that Tesla service is so overwhelmed that they can’t spend the time on customers such as myself, the earlier adopters who helped to fund the whole enterprise, to ensure that our vehicles are running correctly.

Color me disappointed. I can’t wait to see where I end up on the list of HW 3 upgrade recipients.

Tesla’s explanation of my Regen issue

Turns out “Plug In EV” Plan is better for us

If you’ll recall, back in September (2018) I switched us *from* the Plug In EV plan *to* the Smart Usage Plan.

Welp, that was not the way to go. Besides Georgia Power’s ability to charge whatever they like, whenever they like (read the above article), it’s extraordinarily difficult to figure out in advance what your peak usage is going to be. Georgia Power only offers a daily electrical consumption summary if you remain on their hyper costly legacy plan. Despite having the very same smart meter and, ostensibly, the ability to report the total number of kWhs that were consumed over the past 24 hours.
I shouldn’t think it would be terribly difficult to report back to you what consumption was during what time frames (since the charges vary by time of day on the plans in question) and surely the meter can show your peak consumption spike for that period as well. I understand you are charged (penalized really) based on a peak that lasts 30 minutes or more. But I have no way of measuring or monitoring that.

So, for my case, it seems that we have a base load of energy consumption (not unexpected) that would include all the electrical bits and pieces that run constantly throughout the day – furnace fan motor, fridge, lights, computers, etc. – that I have no means to measure. Then, despite my extended efforts to schedule things like pool pumps, car charging, air conditioning, oven / stove use, clothes dryer use, etc. I still managed to hit significant peaks that lead to my bills being far greater than I was/would have been paying under the Plug In EV plan.

Fortunately, to Georgia Power’s credit, it’s not terribly difficult to switch back again which I did after reviewing the past few bills.

My December bill showed as 1,280 kWh consumed with a peak consumption of 13.4 (!) kW for a total of $189.43.
My November bill showed as 1,344 kWh consumed With a peak consumption of 9 kW for a total of $155.78.

Similarly my December bill from LAST year showed as 1,620 kWh consumed (686 kWh Super Off Peak and 0 on peak) for a total of $157.06.
My November bill from last year showed as 1,715 kWh (771 Super Off Peak, 10 kWh On Peak) for a total of $164.25

Part of the lower consumption during the past few months was that I was able to charge my car at work more often recently. Regardless, I had already reduced my car charging consumption to around 3.5 kW. This was done on the car charging page where I can limit the amperage draw. This was part of my strategy to avoid hitting the onerous peak consumption penalty.

Just grossly speaking, it seems that I could take my total consumption for the December and November bills from this year and divide them into the cost to get an average of 13.16 cents a kWh.
Doing likewise for the same months from 2018 yields about 9.63 cents a kWh or about a 40% increase in my per kWh rate.

I understand that this is not super accurate, were I to look at ONLY my November bill the average per kWh rate would be somewhat more reasonable (maybe 20 % more costly).
I guess, at core, my issue is that it is much more impactful on our day-to-day living to try to avoid the Smart Usage peak use penalty and I am chafing because Georgia Power appears to be withholding a very effective tool (daily consumption email) that might make it feasible to try to keep going down this path.

The fact remains that, for me, the increase was significant enough that I decided to fall back to the Plug In EV plan.

YMMV

No Way to Calculate your own Electric Bill in Georgia? And Why I’m switching to the Smart Usage from the Plug-In EV plan

Summary: There is not enough information provided on your electric bill to verify if you are being charged correctly.

Cause: There are two items on the tariff sheets that are not reported and, it appears, there is no way for a normal person to know their costs.

These are:
Demand Side Management Schedule is described as “The amount calculated at the above rate will be increased under the provisions of the Company’s effective Demand Side Management Residential Schedule, including any applicable adjustments”.
and
Fuel Cost Recovery is described as “The amount calculated at the above rate will be increased under the provisions of the Company’s effective Fuel Cost Recovery Schedules in the manner ordered by the Georgia Public Service Commission, including any applicable adjustments”.

This came up when I was reviewing my electric bill to see if the “Plug-in Electric Vehicle” rate, to which I currently subscribe, is the best option for my use patterns.

Georgia Power has 6 rate plans. Two of which (Flat Bill and PrePay) I dismissed immediately as being of no value to me. The remaining ones all had potential so I created a spreadsheet to contrast the amounts I would have paid under those plans compared with what I actually paid.

I took the last 12 months of bills and put them into a spreadsheet. Since I am already on the Plug in EV plan I already had my peak, off peak and super off peak hours broken out for me to simplify the calculations.

I also assumed that the crap fees (Environmental cost recovery, Nuclear boondoggle, Municipal Franchise fee, Tax and the monthly basic service charge) would be about the same regardless of my plan since most of these are based on my energy consumption.

When I first began my calculations I was pretty happy with the results as it looked like there was a tremendous potential for saving money by switching to a different plan. However, to my dismay, I found that the calculations for the rate plan I currently have also gave results that were significantly lower than what I’m actually paying.

I reviewed my formulas a bunch of times and had to conclude that Georgia Power was adding something into the per kilowatt charges that was not obvious on the main part of the bill. Enter the Demand Side Management Schedule and Fuel Cost Recovery items that I finally noticed in the lawyer section of the document.

By my figuring, for the past year, those two items accounted for cost increases on the power portion of the bill of from 21% (last October) up to 59% (last February) over and above the actual published rates.

In real dollars this means I paid $21.40 more on a bill totaling $124.83 up to $58.05 more on a bill totaling $157.06.

Suffice it to say I am not impressed.

So I have no way to really know how much I will pay for electricity under ANY of these plans since it appears Georgia Power can charge pretty much any amount the PSC will let them and I can have no knowledge of that.

The inability to actually calculate the costs of future bills notwithstanding, I can at least get a feel for the *relative* cost differences between the various plans.

Almost universally, the Residential plan is the worst for me.

Likewise Nights & Weekends will not do my wallet any favors although it’s much better than Residential.

Here’s where it gets a bit tricky. It took me a long time to figure out what the “Smart Usage” plan was doing. The description kept going on about needing to split up your high energy uses so as not to consume a lot of power at once. But the mechanism they were using to determine this wasn’t clear to me.
Then I understood. This section here:

DETERMINATION OF BILLING DEMAND:
Maximum kW: Maximum kW shall be the highest 30-minute kW measurement during the current month.

Means that you are essentially punished for the entire month for your highest amount of consumption at a single point in the month regardless of whether you are using the energy in the middle of a hot summer afternoon, or at 2 in the morning, you will pay a premium of $6.64 per kilowatt for the month for that spike.

I am able to charge my car at work many days but if I choose to charge it at home at the maximum power available to me (50 amp service at 240 volts * .8 (max sustained draw) which is 9.6 kW that means a premium on my bill of $63 even if I do it only once during the month.

But I’m able to lower the rate of consumption through my car’s charging controls. Since most of the time I don’t need the car charged *that* fast, I can simply drop it down to something more modest.

So theoretically I can charge my 75 kWh battery from absolutely empty, assuming about 85% efficiency, in 18.4 hours rather than 9.2 hours and reduce my hit by about $31 from Georgia Power.
Keep in mind that it’s pretty rare for me to ever get below 45% charge, so those times change from 7.8 hrs and 15.6 hrs at 40 and 20 amps respectively to about 5.2 and 10.4 hours which is very comfortable.

Of course there can be other high consumption appliances running when I’m charging my car, so I just need to set my car schedule to off hours and make sure those items don’t conflict. For me the next biggest consumer of power in the house will be my pool pump. So I will just schedule it outside of the car charging hours. Between that and ensuring that the clothes dryer isn’t running at 3 in the morning should keep things pretty simple.

For reference I include links to the Tariff sheets (plus pdf copies I have in case the links go stale).
Nights & Weekends (Link to permanent PDF)
Plug-in EV (Link to permanent PDF)
Residential (Link to permanent PDF)
Smart Usage (Link to permanent PDF)

Informal Speed Clocking For Tesla

So, apparently I haven’t figured out how to use Dashboard for Tesla‘s Speed Clocking app as I did a few trials today and then completely did not manage to save them.

Dashboard for Tesla’s Speed Clocking screen

However just to note, my 5,000 lb SUV clocked in at:
5.0 Seconds for 0-60 MPH, and
14.75 Seconds for the 1/4 mile.

I think the 0-60 time is pretty accurate. I bollocksed up the 1/4 mile by ending up going UPHILL for a portion of it.

Just preliminary but was pretty happy with the times nonetheless.